Day 1 - Buenos Aires
We departed ATL on Jan 7. We had a short layover in Miami on our overnight flight to Buenos Aires, Argentina. Not much leg room on that American flight, but we managed to sleep 5 of the 9 hour flight.
Upon arrival the next morning, it took an hour and half to get through immigration. Then it took another hour and a half to catch the bus and ride to the port. At the port we had to check onto the ship, go through immigration again and ride another bus through the thousands of containers to get to the ship, the Holland America Zaandam. By then it was mid-afternoon and we decided to wait till the next day to go into town and opted for the pool and sundeck.
Before dinner we played Trivia and won! Good way to start our cruise. After dinner we went to the show and then after, were the only ones Dancing to the Hits till midnight.
Day 2 - Buenos Aires
After breakfast, we walked into and around Buenos Aires, AKA Paris of the South. Although we only saw parts of the city in our 8-mile walk, we were not impressed, since it mostly resembled other large cities. The origins of the city go back to 1526. We didn't see anything that old. We mostly walked along and around Florida Street, which is pedestrian only and is a main shopping area. We did see some of the historical buildings including;
Plaza Liberator,
Obelisco Square,
Lots of motorcycles and street art.
Casa de Gobiernero, also known as Casa Rosada and Government House,
A few of the sights on the walk back to the ship.
There is a lot of road and building construction around the port and containers.
After our excursion, we went to the sun deck again. The Zaandam was supposed to depart at 6pm; due to harbor traffic, but was delayed until 730pm.
That night we had dinner at the Pinnacle Restaurant, a steak house. It was included in our package, so, we didn't pay extra. It was excellent. The fillets literally melted in our mouths. After the excellent Gaucho Show we again closed down Dancing to the Hits. DJ Sandra already knows what songs we like!
We (Cathy, did not get this get this memo, but always follow) set a goal of 20,000 steps on port days and 10k when on the ship. Today was over 22,000!
Day 3 - Montevideo
Montevideo, Uruguay is the capital and is much smaller than Buenos Aires, only 3 million people in the whole country which is about the same population as Buenos Aires. We liked it a lot more than Buenos Aires. Cidade Vieja, the Old City is right outside the port. They even has a nice map to navigate the area.
Our 1st stop was Plaza Zabala.
Lots of street art!
After that we walked to Plaza Independencia, original site of the Citadel and statue and mausoleum of General Artigas, considered to be the George Washington of Uruguay.
From there we went to the Museums Archivo Historic Municipal (Cabildo). It was closed, but we didn't know. The door was open, so, we walked in one of the workers told us was it was OK and proceeded to show us around.
Their Constitution Hall.
A local dessert.
When we returned to the ship and we finished up our 20K steps with laps on the Promenade Deck.
Then the Zaandam departed port for a day at sea. We passed a ship graveyard on the way out.
That night after the amazing show Duo Yalbo, of course, we were the only ones Dancing to the Hits.
Day 4 - Sea Day
We did our am gym and deck walk, lounged on the sundeck on a cloudless day, and played a couple games of trivia. It was our 1st Gala Night Dinner of the cruise, so, we dressed up for dinner and went with our friends, Jerome and Ann. Dancing to the Hits was a little crowded for the 1st time.
Day 5 - Puerto Madryn
Back in Argentina. Bigger city than we thought it would be. For the second largest fishing port in Argentina not much happening. In all fairness, its mostly a beach resort for people from Buenos Aires.
When we disembarked, we met a lady from the Tourist Office and she gave us a map. She told us the Museum we wanted to see was closed but the EcoCentro was only 4k away. Wrong it was 4 miles. We walked along the beach, so it was OK. We took a lot of pictures while walking.
The EcoCentro was a disappointment; it was mostly used as an education center for school children. After walking all that way, we were not going to say no to the tour. It didn't take long, but at least we had a beer with another couple from the ship who also walked over, before leaving.
On the way back, we took more interesting pictures, especially the ones of the tree carvings. Then we stopped at a mall with free WiFi, but it wasn't working very good like most of the WiFi we tried to use on the trip
On the walk back up the pier to the ship, there were sea lions hanging out on some steps and on the ship's stabilizer. And, other people were paying $400 to see them???
By the time we were back to the ship we had over 25K steps completed. That night back to Trivia and Dancing to the Hits.
Day 6 - Sea Day
Went to the gym and did our deck walk and did our 1st 10k steps of the day. Good thing we got those steps in early because the swells were getting larger, around 15 ft. and Cathy was feeling sickish and had to put a patch on and eat a green apple.
In the afternoon, we played Shanghai Rummy with our friends Jerome and Ann.
That night after we won Trivia again. After dinner, for a change, we watched a movie, Night School with Kevin Hart, in our room.
Day 7 - Stanley, Falkland Islands
We arrived at Stanley at 8am. It's a tendering port. Also, the home of a lot more penguins than people. Since, the wind was high on the starboard side, the ship could only use the port side tenders. Bottom line, it took almost 4 hours to get everyone into town.
We didn't do an expensive ship tour, instead took a bus to Gypsy Cove. What a beautiful beach!
Unfortunately, the area is still mined from the 1982 war with Argentina. In fact, we passed a mine removal crew working on the roadside. They hope to have all mines removed from this area this year. We saw some beautiful scenery, penguins and other birds in the area.
Back in Stanley, where most of the Islands 3000 people live, we did a short walk about. Short because it's a small town.
We did all the highlights;
Christ Church and it's war memorial. It's the southernmost Anglican church in the world,
The Government House and Falkland War Memorial.
Interesting sign.
Our last stop was the very interesting Falkland Islands Museum. The part depicting the war was the most fascinating; especially, the video as told by residents when they were children.
Day 8 - Sea Day Through the Scotia Sea to Antarctica
After breakfast we went to the gym and did the treadmills. We also walked some laps, which are getting harder to do the closer we get to Antarctica. The seas and winds are increasing and the temperature is decreasing. A fog came in around noon and stayed the rest of day, making it like a Stephen King novel. The temperature stayed in the 30s.
We went to bed early, hoping for the best weather, because we were starting scenic cruising at 7am the next morning.
Day 9 - 1st Day of Antarctica Experience
Snowed that morning.
Approaching King George Island and South Shelton Islands we entered Admiralty Bay. Lots of iicebergs that were full of penguins.
Passed a station supply ship and the British Station.
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That night Cathy discovered a new drink, Pomegranate Ginger Drop. Yum!
Day 10 - 2nd Day Antarctica Experience
Travelled through Coker Passage and saw a cousin of Nessie, the Locke Nest Monster.
We went through Charlotte Bay and saw more and more icebergs.
In Wilhelmina Bay we saw an Argentine patrol boat and 2 zodiacs conducting special forces training. Why else would military be diving in that area.
Next we passed Cuverville Island and went through Schollaert Channel to Dallman Bay.
Missed Trivia that night because we didn't finish scenic viewing till late, since it was lighter and lighter, later and later.
Day 11 - 3rd Day Antarctica Experience
In the morning we went through Bismarck Strait to US Palmer Station and picked up researchers who were making presentations to us on the operation and research of Palmer Station.
We had to turn around and go instead to Paradise Harbor with 350k penguins and Polish Station. The Harbor had lots of whales and icebergs.
In the afternoon we had to break away from our scenic viewing to listen to the researchers from Palmer Station, US Antarctic Program, National Science Foundation. their talk was very interesting.
Day 12 - Day 4 of Antarctica Experience
When travelling trough Schollaert Channel we went on deck and discovered we had several hours of snow during the night.
In Dallman Bay visibility was low due to cloud level and light snow. It cleared enough for us to see the largest icebergs of the trip.
After that in Banfield Strait there was more snow and reduced visibility. Amazingly, it cleared enough for us to see the Astrolat Needle.
Again, after heavy fog, the sky cleared somewhat and we were able to see Deception Island. Before seeing we could smell the 500k penguins. Could smell them from more than 5 miles away. Also, lots of whales in the area.
There was also a iceberg that calved twice while we were watching. It's equilibrium changed and we were hoping it would flip. But it didn't.
Trivia and dancing that night.
Day 13 - Sea Day Through Bellinghausen Sea
Throughout the night and morning there was snow, 30 foot swells and winds over 50 mph. The outside areas were closed, so, we went to the gym and walked inside. During the night, we had to take some drastic measured to stop the noise from all the ship's movement.
In afternoon Trivia, we did pretty good but not enough to win. Right after that we won Scattagories. Then we took a try at the penny slots and Cathy won $3.81 in 15 minutes. From there we played bingo and were 3 letters short of winning coverall.
It was another Gala night, so, we dressed up again. No show or dancing tonight, since it was up early for Drake Passage and Cape Horn.
Day 14 - Drake Passage and Cape Horn
We woke to calm seas as we approached Cape Horn. The Cape crossing that has sunk over 1000 ships and killed over 15k sailors was tame for us. We passed a small cruise ship, light house and sailor memorial on way to crossing Cape.
Usually the water is rough and ships can't get nearly as close as we did. At times they have waves over 100 ft. high. Our luck with weather continues to hold.
An hour later we crossed Cape Horn.
The calm seas also made it possible for the ship to reach our next port early. Seas were calm but not the wind; winds went over 65 mph. Had to stay off the decks again. We still arrived at Ushuaia early evening.
Ushuaia, Argentina in the Terra del Fuego Archipelago is the southernmost city in the world. It was once a penal colony and now attracts tourists on way to Antarctica. After dinner and Trivia the ship had docked and allowed us to disembark so we did.
Stayed in town till 1030p and it was still light outside. Then we went to Dancing to the Hits. We were only ones there again and closed it down.
We made our 20k steps today.
Day 15 - Ushuaia, Argentina
After going into town the night before, we focused on visiting the main museum. The Museo Maritimo and Museo del Presidio was very interesting. The former prison had displays on the prison and prison life, Antarctica and it's exploration from Argentine perspective, several art galleries and painted penguins.
A model of the shipwreck we had passed the day before was also on display.
After town, the ship departed back into Beagle Channel again and we headed north toward Glacier Alley. Winds picked up this afternoon to over 50 knots and up to 65 mph and then over 70 for a little while. When the winds calmed a little we were still able to go outside to take amazing pictures. Had to hold Cathy to keep her from blowing away.
During dinner we had an entertaining rainbow!
Day 16 - Punta Arenas, Chile
This was one of our longer days in port in this city of over 100k. We thought we were going to use tenders, but, we docked outside in the industrial port, then we had to take a shuttle into town.
The bus dropped us off at the Hernando de Magallanes Monument. The city sits on the Strait of Magellan. The residents consider themselves Magellanicos before Chileans.
Right on the square was the Cathedral and Sara Braun palace.
From there we walked to the Carro La Cruz to view the city and the Straight of Magellan.
Next we stopped at another Cathedral that still had its Nativity set up. It was the largest and had the most characters we've ever seen in a nativity display.
Then we walked to the amazing Cemetario Municipal. Thank goodness they had banos.
Our last stop before catching the bus was the Magellan Regional Museum.
Showtime that night was Plant Earth in Concert, based on the BBC show. That was followed by the Filipino Crew Show.
Day 17 - Sea Day and Scenic Cruising
Rained this am. Big wind, some gusts over 100 mph. Decks closed. Gym time. Played Apples to Apples and got pins for playing.
In the afternoon we cruised Canal Sarmiento and couldn't go into the fiord to see Bruno Glacier due to still very high winds, well over 50 mph.
During the night, we had to leave the "shelter" of the fiords and islands and cruise into the Pacific for several hours into the early morning. Big swells, over 30 ft. from storms in the ocean. Biggest swells yet. No dancing that night.
Day 18 - Sea Day and Scenic Cruising
The morning started with rain. We were travelling through the Messier Channel and took a side trip down a fiord to view a massive glacier. As we approached Iceberg Glacier the sky started to miraculously clear. This area is the third largest ice mass in the world.
Saw lots of water fall along the way through the Chilean Fiords.
We returned to the Messier Channel and the water color suddenly changed. More Pacific than glacial water?
Took a break to play Scattagories and won! Then after lunch we won Trivia!
Tonight was our last Gala Night. It was also Surf and Turf Night. Cathy had 2 and Zach had 3 lobsters! It was also Chocolate Night!!!
We closed down Dancing to the Hits again.
Day 19 - Puerto Chacabuco
Took the Tenders in today. This port city is very small with one small hotel, one small gas station...and lots of dogs. However, it had excellent WIFI. The ship stops here to get people to pay more money for tours to visit the surrounding area to help generate local income. It has access to national parks, waterfalls and other outdoor recreation opportunities.
After visiting the town, it was nice enough for us to spend a few hours on the sun deck.
Ended night with show and dancing.
Day 20 - Castro, Chiloe Island
We had to ride the Tenders to the dock again. It was cooler than the day before and cloudy. We were hoping to be in shorts and t-shirts, but it was not to be.
The city is on hills. The street next to docks is flat, after that it's uphill.
We walked with our friends Jerome and Ann along the shore.
From there we climbed the hill to Plaza de Armas, the town square.
The Church of San Francisco, a UNESCO World Heritage Site is right on the square. It's all wood inside!
We ended our day walking along the dock area.
On the way out we passed many, many salmon, shrimp and mussel farms.
In the afternoon, we did something different, went to see Bohemian Rhapsody in the theater.
After dinner we went to the comedy show. Very funny.
Day 21 - Puerto Montt
Our last port. Tenders again.
A volcano which last erupted in 1960 dominates the background.
1st stop was the Museo Juan Pablo II.
Then we went to the Bell Tower of the Jesuit Church, but it was closed.
Just down the street was the Cathedral.
Last stop of the day we went to the market, Feria Artesanal Angeimo.
Day 22 - Sea Day
1st sea day in a while the winds were calm enough to do our deck walk. We also played Scattagories and Trivia. It was also nice enough for us to spend a few hours on the sun deck.
The only day we were able to get a picture at sunset.
Every day our steward made an animal out of towels. This was the best!
This was the last day of the cruise it wad time to pack our bags. We only bought a few small things, still problem getting it all back in the suitcases.
Day 23 - Departure, Day in Santiago and Flight Home
The last day of the cruise we had to get off the ship early. We opted for a tour because it included the 90 minute ride to the airport and our flight back to ATL didn't leave till 10pm.
This was a tour from the port of San Antonio to Casablanca Valley Wineries and city of Santiago.
San Antonio is a very busy port. Chile is 2nd largest salmon exporter and 4th largest wine exporter in world and those and there other exports and imports are mostly through this port.
Chile is only 90 miles wide, but 3000 miles long. There are 20 wineries in the Casablanca Valley, all growing grapes for while wines. Chile started growing wine in 1515 when the priests brought root stock from France to have wine for mass.
First stop was the William Cole Winery.
Then Estancia el Cuadro Winery, for an excellent lunch and folk dancing.
"Scenic" drive through Santiago. The 20k feet tall Andes are only a half hour away and have 10 ski resorts.
Last stop handicraft village of El Pueblo de Los Domincos.
Then on to airport for our night flight back to ATL.
