Kilimanjaro Expedition



We left Atlanta on February 23 on a 20 hour flight to Kilimanjaro, Tanzania and arrived in Kilimanjaro at 930pm on February 24. We were transported to the Meru Lodge and had a night’s rest before our first day full day in Tanzania.
We spent Friday adjusting to the time and temperature change with a trip to Arusha National Park. In the park we were accompanied by an armed ranger due to possible wild animal attack. We saw a variety of animals including zebra, giraffe, Cape buffalo, warthog, hyena and others from our Range Rover and during a three-hour hike. We also visited Lake Big Meru which has the largest concentration of fluorite of any lake on earth. This lake is also the home to tens of thousands of Flamingos. Mount Meru at about 15500 feet is the backdrop for this area.
Early Saturday morning we rode an hour to the Umbwe Trailhead to start our climb. The Trailhead is about 5500 feet. There we signed the official log-in book. We met our Thomsom Safaris head guide, Prosper, two assistant guides, Gauden and Godlezen, our cook and his two helpers and our 27 porters. All this for nine climbers; Tim from Boston, Tom from Miami Beach, Joe, Bryce and George from Chicago, Paul and Victoria from Toronto and the two of us. Each porter is only allowed to carry 40 pounds. Everything, including all trash has to be carried up and down the mountain.
The climb started rather easily with a gradual ascent up a dirt road. After two hours the road turned into moderately steep single track. We hiked for two more hours and stopped for our first lunch break. Thomson does a good job providing beyond our needs. Every meal was a hot one. We always had tables and chairs and table clothes and a hand washing station at each meal. They also provided a portable privacy toilet which Cathy and Victoria appreciated.After lunch we climbed about four more hours on fairly steep trails. We arrived at Umbwe Cave Camp at 9700 ft. for our first overnight. Since we were in the mountains, it’s hard to find level ground. Our tent usually slightly slopped downhill toward our feet. We put our duffels down by our feet each night to keep from sliding down toward the front.Day two brought another eight hours of climbing. Most of the climbing was very steep with a number of scrambles up steep walls. We went from 9700 ft. to 13050 ft. this day. We traveled through three eco-zones; Forest, Heather and Moorland. The Heather area was spectacularly beautiful. The Mooreland climb was on a ridgeline with plunging mountain walls and spectacular views on both sides.  Late afternoon we arrived at Barranco Camp. This camp was also hosting several other expeditions coming from more westerly routes than the Umbwe. We were in the Alpine Desert ecosystem and would remain there till decent after summit day.

On day three we climbed from Barranco Camp to Karanga Camp. Although we went up and down many times the overall elevation only increased 300 feet. This was to help with acclimatizing to the elevation for the final summit push.

Day four was a short climb day. We only climbed about four hours and were finished by lunchtime. This climb from Karanga Camp to Barafu Camp at 15300 ft. was to set up our climb to the summit stating at midnight. After lunch we rested, had dinner and rested some more. After dinner the wind picked-up considerably and was severely buffeting out tents. One of the other climbers in our group asked Zach if we were still summiting with the high winds. The answer was yes.

At 11pm we started putting all our gear on for the summit climb. The wind was fierce blowing constantly 40-50 miles per hour. Everyone was determined to make the summit. We were also hoping the wind would die down. That did not happen.

We left at midnight with only the incredibly bright stars and our headlamps lighting the way. The first 500 hundred feet in elevation gain was a scramble up rock. After that it was a climb up scree the rest of the way to Stella Point which was the crest of the mountain. Kilimanjaro is the tallest free standing volcano on earth so the scree is pretty typical of the area around the top of most volcanoes. We climbed up the scree for almost 5 hours, stopping occasionally for a quick break. We did not stop long. Even though we were well bundles up with the wind blowing we had to keep moving to stay warm. About half way to the top our fluids and food were frozen from the below freezing temperatures and 50 mph winds. Not sure what the wind chill equals but it was damn cold. Several times many of us felt like we’d be blown off the mountain but we weren’t. As the sun started rising we made our last big push and arrived at Stella Point. The worst of the climbing was over. The wind had not let up though. 

After a short break to view the sunrise we pushed on for another 45 minutes to Uhuru Peak 5895 meters – 19340 ft. The view of the glaciers and surrounding area was spectacular. Unfortunately by this time we were too cold to enjoy it.  After the requisite photos of the summit area, we headed down the mountain. Both of us were in early stages of hypothermia and we needed to get to a warmer place.

The only way to do that was to go back down the mountain. As we climbed down and the sun rose in the sky the winds moderated a little. It was a four hour climb back to Barafu Camp. By the time we arrived there we had warmed up. We were also very tired from the climb and fighting the wind. Every day on the mountain is a different experience. One guide who had summited over 170 times said it was the worst winds he had ever experienced on the summit climb.

After a short rest and lunch we took off down the mountain on the Mweka Trail which took us to Mweka Camp about 5000 feet lower than Barafu. We arrived at that camp early evening. It’s a large camp since it is a staging area for many expeditions. One of our group members bought everyone a Kilimanjaro beer which we thoroughly enjoyed.

The next morning we climbed down to the Mweka Gate and signed the official book. Thomson had a nice lunch and ceremony for us. We received our summit certificates and we had some summit patches as well.

From there we went to KIA Lodge for the first shower in a week and a well deserved break. That evening we went to the airport and started our journey home.

Cathy’s JournalFeb 23rd – Wed to Thursday Feb 24th We started our adventure with a long flight, over- 8 hours to Amsterdam (with an hour layover). We met a couple (a little older than us) who had climbed Kilimanjaro two years prior, and took a different route up. They shared their story and pictures. Our next leg of our journey was even longer to Tanzania. We slept a fair amount on the plane and watched lots of movies. We land in Tanzania. My first stop was at the restroom, after meeting with the Thomson Safari people and other people that we were climbing Kilimanjaro with. Joe, Bryce, George, Tom, Tim, Victoria and Paul was the group. The restroom was a real eye opener. I have never seen just a hole in the ground and a place to put your feet! What have I gotten myself into?
From the airport we went to Arusha Lodge which was about an hour. We turn to go the lodge onto a very long and very dusty road. We were greeted with warm washcloths to get the dust off our faces. It felt wonderful. Then we offered a passion fruit drink. We had a slight briefing on the plans for the following day.
Feb 25th – Friday
We had breakfast at 7 am and a 830 am briefing on our climb and to meet our guides. Prosper is the head guide and Gauden and Godlezen are the other guides. Then off to Arusha National Park for a full day of animal viewing and some light hiking. We rode in Range Rovers that had roof tops that pop open for easy viewing of the animals and taking pictures. We saw lots of Blue monkeys, Colobus monkeys, Kirk’s dik-dik, Martial Eagle, Giraffe and Zebras, Crowned Crane, and thousands of Flamingo’s. Lake Big Meru has the largest concentration of fluoride in the world. After our mini safari, we arrived at the National Forest where we had to wait for our guide to take us on our hike. Our guide was a small man, a ranger carrying an AK47 gun. He had another assistant helper with him. His name was Ezekiel and he was full of information. We walked in this open field viewing the animals. The African buffalo did not look to happy about our presence and once our guide cocked his gun he just turned and went the other direction. Whew! We saw warthogs and baboons. We walked through the forest and came upon a very nice waterfall. We finished up our hike and then it was back to the lodge. We had a nice dinner at the lodge. We turned in early for the big day and the start of our climb. Back at our room we had a visitor, a little mouse. We shooed him out. About 4 am Zach wakes me, “did you hear that?” I heard a rustling sound coming from we thought Zach’s duffle bag. In the morning I discovered that the sound we heard was coming from the thatched roof and the mice were running on top of it.
Feb 26th – Saturday
Big breakfast! We weighed our bags to make sure they do not exceed 33 lbs. Then off to our start for the Umbwe Trailhead (5,900 ft). The bathrooms were , well………those holes in the ground with two stands to place your feet, very smelly!! (at Arusha National Park there bathrooms were far smellier – I had to leave and let my eyes stop tearing from gaging then go back in holding my nose). Anyway, we signed the book here with all our information, passport numbers etc. and then make sure our duffle bags were there and they were. We were pleased to see that the porters rewrapped our bags in heavy duty waterproof duffle bag carriers. It is now 11 am as we start our climb into the rainforest. We will stay in this eco system for today and then move into the Moorland system. The rainforest is beautiful, with ferns, passion plants and baby trumpet plants. The rain teases us, ponchos go on (Zach and I didn’t) gaiters on (we didn’t do that either). Twenty minutes later, everyone starts taking off their ponchos and gaiters which are very hot. That is why we did not put them on only if it was raining very hard. We sat down for our first lunch about 2 pm. Tables, chairs, and table clothes. A very nice lunch was served. I’m impressed! The rain and thunder tease us once again, close but just a tease. We’re all having lots of great conversation and lots of laughs. We couldn’t have asked for a better group to climb with. The porters and guides are awesome. What respect I have for all the porters for all the equipment they brought up. it was just unbelievable. The porters set up the whole camp, Umbwe Caves camp (9,500 ft) by the time we got there. We had a mess tent, 6 tents for the climbers, 4 huge tents for the 3 guides and 27 porters, and 1 medic. Our dinner was amazing!! We had fresh veggie soup, spaghetti with meat, bread, fresh sliced vegetables and dessert. The toilet facilities (2) were not as primitive as I imagined. They pump flush and they did not smell. Zach was good at doing his research to keep me happy. We had a long day starting at 630am – 8 hours of climbing.
Feb 27th- Sunday
Up at 630 (teas served tent side), however I did not sleep well due to Zach snoring ( he was congested) and when he stopped snoring some bird with a strange call would squawk. The bird would stop and then Zach would start snoring. This went on for most of the night. We left camp at 830. Our guide today is Gowden. It will be a very steep climb at the start along with rock scrambling (not very good for short people). The forest took on another eco system. With a lot of moss, Giant Erica and Giant Heather trees with narrow steep trails. The air gets drier and the ridgeline very steep. We get a glimpse of Uhuru Peak through the trees. It is a beautiful day! We stop for a wonderful lunch. This day of climbing will bring us to Barranco Camp (13,004 ft). We see manly varieties of ferns and flowers. Now we enter the Moorland zone 330pm. We enjoy some downtime. After every day at camp the porters bring you basins of hot water to wash up. When you come to camp your duffle bag is in your tent (We’re a little spoiled). Tea is served and we relax looking at what we have to climb tomorrow! It will be only a 3 hour up and over very steep and down the other side to Karanga Camp. There will be only 230’ elevation change. No one at this time has suffered from altitude sickness. Everyone is taking Diamox for the altitude sickness and Joe and Cathy are taking something else for it (a steroid). Some have had touches of Montezuma’s revenge. Actually all the guys got it but not Victoria or Cathy. Dinner was lasagna, garlic bread, beans and fresh pineapple for dessert.
Feb 28th – Monday
Up at the usual 630 am. We left camp at 840. We were all curious of the “Barranco Wall”. We were told it would be about a 3 hour hike today, turned into 4.5 hour hike or climb and very strenuous. The “Wall” was very challenging. Everyone feeling well and strong and another beautiful day!! We arrived at Karanga Camp at 315. Lunch was served, French fries, chicken tenders and sliced avocado, tomatoes cucumber salad, carrots, fresh coconut, and cucumber. Excellent food! It really hit the spot. We went back to our tents for a nap. Every day the porters knock on our tents for “Teatime”. The elevation – 13,231 ft. The sun periodically peaks through and we get a clear view of the snow covered summit. Today is Paul’s birthday. Dinner, Taco’s with all the fixings and they surprised us with baking Paul a cake with his name on it and singing Happy Birthday, with all the cooks and staff. They sang a special song for him in Swahili. Victoria (Paul’s wife) was shocked as the rest of us were.
March 1st – Tuesday
Up at 630 and we depart 840 to our next destination, Barafu Camp 15,331 ft. Three hours steady uphill. We arrive 1140 at camp. The tents are all set up. Lunch served at 1245pm. Corned Beef brisket, pasta, hard boiled eggs and fresh cucumber, carrots and coconut. It is very dusty and windy. The temperature will drop at the altitude. We will take a nap (or try- the tents are like saunas). There are a lot of Kili mice here. They look like chipmunks with a long tail. We have our tea at 4 pm and wash up. Dinner is a 6 pm, soup and pasta. Coming toward the camp, you could see the camp set up on the ridgeline, totally exposed to the elements. Also the blue glaciers! Just beautiful!! This is the night we have all been waiting for. After our dinner, we will settle in early to be awoken at 11pm and leave camp for our accent at 12 midnight fully clothed- it will be cold. This will be a 6-8 hour climb to Stella Point and then onto Uhuru Peak 19,340 feet!!
March 2nd – Wednesday
We wake up at 11pm and the wind is blowing fiercely. We had tea and toast and left by midnight. All headlamps on and we set out to climb. I never lost my determination to finish. We were all very quiet and cold. About 2 hours into the climb, my headlamp did not work because of the cold. I had to rely on everyone else’s headlamps. It was a horrendous scree climb followed by rock scrambling. At this time I was getting blown off balance. We all kept looking, trying to see the end of it. About 3 hours into the climb my fluids bladder froze and I kept blowing it back to keep it from freezing but the wind was relentless whipping about 50 mile an hour wind. We packed a Nalgene bottle and kept it upside down to keep it from freezing. Zach’s bladder froze about ½ hour later. It makes it difficult to hydrate yourself which is the one key in success to the summit. Two hours later we are still climbing and going through narrow paths of glaciers. We keep looking behind us to see if we can see the sun rising to give us some warmth. At this point Victoria and I have got to relieve ourselves. Not easy for women!! Two more hours and we finally make it to Stella Point 19,000 ft. we still have another 45 minutes until we come to Uhuru Peak 19,340 ft. I had my new big camera in my back pack however once we got to the summit we were so cold that we just wanted our guide to take our picture with our point and shoot cameras and get down fast. I had all intentions of taking a picture of Zach’s altimeter watch with the altitude on it. That never happened. Between hypothermia and dehydration we were fueling the altitude sickness. We were the first to start down with our guide Gauden. Scree all the way down- all 4000 ft. That was difficult. We got back to camp about 10 am. This we knew was going to be a very long day. 4000’ up to the summit and 4000’ down, have lunch then 5000’ down to Mweka Camp. So that is 13000’ in one day!! Everyone felt they needed more time before moving out of the camp. All agreed that the climb was the hardest they had ever done! We packed up camp by 1 pm. We would be taking a different approach down. This is a very slippery trail, all dusty (Alpine Desert zone), rocky and scree for a good part down. We finally made it to camp about 430. Joe tried to get the porters t meet us at the camp with beer and wine (his treat) only to find out they could not bring it into the park area. The park had beer at their store so we settled for a beer. We had an appetizer of roasted lamb tenderloin with herbs and garlic. It was very good. Dinner was served at 7 pm. We were all exhausted (sleep deprivation from the early climb). We all went to bed early to finish our trek through the rainforest to Mweka Gate early in the morning.

March 3rd - Thursday

This trail was very slippery and wet. We finally made it to Mweka Gate. There we signed the book that we completed our climb and had lunch which was hamburgers, avocados and pineapple. Beer and wine for all the porters, guides and our group (compliments of Joe). We were presented with our certificates of completion on climbing Kilimanjaro. We were transported to the Kia Lodge. A shower never felt so good. We went by the pool for a couple of hours and had a beer or two. Dinner was at 6pm and we were taken to the Tanzania airport at 7pm and our flight was not until 10pm. It was a long flight to Amsterdam and we had an eight hour layover so we took the train to downtown Amsterdam and walked around for 4 hours. It was very coldthere. We arrived in Atlanta at 630pm on Friday, March 4th. It was a GREAT trip!