Wednesday, October 16, 2019

Spain and Portugal September-October 2019

Day 1, Madrid

Arrived early morning in Madrid on Delta direct from ATL. Capital of Spain since 1562, this city is the birthplace of many of the world’s greatest writers, painters and artists. We dropped our bags at our hotel and went out to explore the city on only 3 hours of sleep on the overnight flight.

The 1st thing we noticed was how clean the city streets are. Why can't we do this in the USA?

During 10 miles of walking, we went to Plaza Mayor,


Puerto Del Sol,

Catedral De La Almudena,




Palacio Real,











 Train station.
Department of Agriculture.


and Parque De El Retiro, which is about the size of Central Park in NY, NY.



Two of the parks highlights were the Palacio De Crista






and the Monument Alonzo XII.


Only books in this market.


View from our hotel terrace.



In the evening we had a welcome drink and orientation meeting with our Gate1 Tour Manager, Alberto, followed by a welcome dinner for the people in our group. This was our 13th Gate1 trip.

It was a long day.

Day 2 - Madrid and Toledo

The hotel forgot to do our wakeup call at 8am. We were supposed to be on the bus at 9am. Alberto called us at 920am, which woke us up, to meet up at the Prado Museum. First time in all our Gate1 tours we missed a bus. The Prado was only a 15-minute walk away and we'd already seen everything they were going to visit before the Prado, so, we didn't miss a thing.




At the world-renowned Prado Museum, we viewed works of art by famous artists such as El Greco, Goya, Velázquez, and Ribera.



After that, we walked around the area before our bus left for Toledo. Saw some sights including some urban camping.




It took extra time to get to Toledo, since it was the finish line that day for Stage 19 of the Vuelta a España bike race.

We had to ride 6 separate escalators to get from the bus park up the hill to old town Toledo. Guess they put the escalators in for all the tourists that don't like to walk. We did a walking tour of the city's most famous monuments, including the St. Tome Church with its El Greco masterpiece, (no pictures allowed),






Toledo is known for swords, inlaid gold and marzipan.Toward the end of the tour, Alberto, bought us marzipan!




Saw Santa Maria la Blanca Synagogue with its beautiful Moorish architecture, the oldest synagogue in Europe still standing.








At the end of the time tour, we were able to catch the finish of the Vuelta bike race!



 DAY 3 - Segovia, Avila and Salamanca

We traveled across the rugged Sierra de Guadarrama Mountains to the historic city of Segovia. On the way we passed this 150 meter high stone cross with a massive underground Basilica beneath it from the days of Franco.

First we viewed the best preserved,1800 year old, Roman Aqueduct, symbol of the city and designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

 



Next the fairy-tale Alcazar Castle with its soaring turrets, moats and magical towers,


 






 and the Gothic Cathedral that took almost 200 years to complete. 




Then, to stunning Avila, surrounded by imposing city walls, one of Spain's best preserved bastions.



It's also the home of St. Theresa, founder of the Order of the Carmelites. 







Last stop of the day and overnight stay was the university town of Salamanca, with the 5th oldest university in Europe, dating from the 13th century. The Plaza Mayor is considered Spain's most beautiful central plaza.





They really like pork in this city.



We went to the12th century Old Cathedral and the historic center of the city. 



Astronaut on door!


 


 A little BMX demo in square.





Day 4 - Shrine of Fatima on the route to Lisbon

Depart for Portugal, via the Serra da Estrela mountain range. Once out of the mountains and heading to the coast we were back in warner weather.

Fatima, site of the famous religious visions that occurred in 1917, where an apparition of Mary appeared to three peasant children. This is one of only four places that the Catholic Church has declared a vision of Mary to be authentic.



We visited the beautiful Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary built in neoclassical style, flanked by colonnades linking with the extensive convent.





There were many Pilgrims at the Shrine.



Also, visited the museum.








After Fatima, we arrived In Lisbon, one of the oldest cities in Europe, over 2,000 years old, and capital of Portugal since 1147. We took an evening walk down to the waterside and back to the hotel. Saw many interesting sights and had an enjoyable dinner.



A lot of things are made from cork that would surprise you. 60% of the world's cork comes from Portugal.















Most notably was the small rock work on all the sidewalks in the historic downtown district. They are also in a lot of other places in Portugal.

Day 5 - Lisbon, Cascais and Sintra

In Lisbon, the tour began with a stop at the top of Edward VII’s Park for a view over the hills of Lisbon and the River Tagus. This is where the River meet the Atlantic and it looks more like a bay.



 Next, we went to the symbol of Lisbon, the 16th century Belem Tower,



the memorial to the 1st Trans-Atlantic air flight from Brazil  to Portugal,


 and the modern memorial to the Portuguese explorers.








Afterwards, we visit the Cathedral of Lisbon and surrounding streets.





From there we went to Cascais for lunch and a walk along the Atlantic.





The city has the same kind of walkways as Lisbon. That's a lot of work. They are beautiful, but, not always level. This one was though it didn't look it.




Last stop of the day was quaint Sintra, the “Glorious Eden” of Lord Byron, and ancient summer retreat of the royal court, highlighted by lavish romantic castles and stunning monuments.




 









The Sintra Royal Palace, a 15th-century royal residence, contains one of the largest tile collections in Portugal.
Amazing stuff!


 After the Palace, we took a walk down the hill.





Day 6 - Travel Day to Algarve Region

Depart Lisbon heading south. Crossed the Tajos River via the longest bridge in Europe at 14 kilometers long. The River was very wide but very shallow, averaging only 3 feet deep. Good area for mussels.


We crossed the region of Alentejo, with it's rolling hills, grape and olive vineyards and cork oak trees. There are few people living in this area.


Stopped for lunch in the small beach town of Albufeira.






Ended day at Lagos, known for its 16th century walled old town located along the Atlantic Ocean in Algarve, Portugal's southernmost region. Did a short walking tour of the old town Lagos. It's also a beach town and port city. Went by St Anthony Cathedral, which is beautiful inside and lined with some of the finest wood carvings in Portugal, but no pictures allowed.




Then we went to the square that had the 1st slave market in Portugal.




After that we strolled along the waterway,

 stopped by the old fort,





and bought 2 large beers at a store for less than a dollar.


Day 7 - Lagos, St. Vincent, Sagres

This morning, we went to the spectacular rock formations of Ponta da Piedade. These golden sandstone cliffs, stand in stark contrast to the deep turquoise-green color of the water. The entire region is truly awe-inspiring.

Cape St. Vincent - the most southwesterly point of continental Europe, is known as "the end of the world". 











 Afterward, travel to beautiful Sagres15th century fortress. 



We spent the afternoon relaxing at the hotel pool and walking in the historic district.

Day 8 - Travel to Seville

Depart Lagos this morning heading east. Reach the Spanish border and enter the region of Andalucia. We arrived in Seville, with its astonishing layers of history, early afternoon. Took a short walk around the area before dinner.


 WHY??
Beautiful lady!!
Day  9 - Seville City Tour

Begin the day at the beautiful Plaza de España and the fragrant gardens of Maria Luisa Park.













Continue with a visit to the magnificent Cathedral of Seville, the largest Gothic cathedral and 4th largest cathedral in the world. It was a mosque until 1248. Then it became a cathedral and had a number of additions   over several hundred years.



 The crocodile was a gift to the queen.



The silver altar is really silver.

It has the largest altar in the world


and one of the burial site of Christopher Columbus. Apparently, parts of his body are buried in here and in Puerto Rico.





 We walked the ramps to the top of the tower.



 

 Walked the streets for a while after.





 We passed this 40 ft. tall bull on the ride to Cordoba.


In the afternoon, did a tour to Cordoba, which was founded by the Romans as their center of silver mining operations. Was taken over by Moors and was the richest city in Muslim culture in 8th, 9th and 10th centuries.




Visited the astonishing Mezquita de Cordoba, one of the largest mosques in the world, transformed into a soaring cathedral in the 16th century. The Mosque-Cathedral was originally a Roman temple. It has 43 columns.





The Moors built a Mosque on top of the temple. It was the 2nd largest mosque in the world after Mecca. After the "reconquest" the Cathedral was built inside the Mosque. It's a UNESCO World Heritage Site and an amazing blending of cultures. 



The pasos were on display in the Cathedral for the 1st time in 20 years. Lucky us! They are used in religious processions around Easter and next week they would be going back to their home churches.













This Flemish painting is displayed above a Catholic altar made with Moorish designs.


The organ pipes.
 The main altar is massive.



After that, we walked the ancient Jewish Quarter with its labyrinth of winding narrow streets, shady flower filled courtyards, picturesque squares, and the most popular place in Cordoba to take a picture of the Mosque-Cathedral.

 The last pictures of the day, we're from the other side of the river.




Day 10 - Granada with Moorish Influenced Alhambra Palace

Today's drive took us from Seville to Granada. Nothing but olive trees mile after mile after mile.



Here, we visited the 13th century Alhambra, one of Spain’s most celebrated monuments, dramatically perched atop Assabica Hill overlooking the entire city of Granada.



There is a church next door.


The king and Queen of Spain attached a palace that was never finished.



 



This imposing hilltop fortress, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is one of the finest examples in the world of Moorish art and architecture.















During the reign of the Moors, the Alhambra served as the opulent residence of the royal family. The intricate craftsmanship on the walls and ceilings is unmatched from those times. Today we couldn't do it.














It also has an amazing operating water delivery system that starts in the Sierra-Nevada Mountains. It needs only gravity to operate.

From there we walked along the lanes of the fragrant Generalife Gardens with its beautifully designed courtyards, waterfalls, ponds and views of the Sierra Nevada Mountains.

 








Day 11 - Drive to Alicante

We depart Granada, and journey towards the Mediterranean coast to the seaside city of Alicante.  We saw dramatic scenery, as the landscape changes from rugged mountains to arid meadows and orange orchards.



In an area north of Granada, many homes were built into the side of mountains. The families have dug out and expanded the caves for generations. Many are now popular as Airbnbs.


Talk about low clouds.




Upon arrival in Alicante, a historic and cultural city, our bus hit a sign and bust one of those large windows while parking at the hotel. Our driver was misdirected by the hotel staff.



We went on a short walk admiring all the yachts in the harbor waiting for our bags to get to our room with a view.





After changing shoes and hats, we went for a walk on the beach,


and then up to the Castillo Santa Barbara. We had to ask directions several times, since there was no signage.






The Castillo is a lot bigger than it looks from down below. It was very interesting and had great views.







Bull fighting ring.








Beer time!
 


After we walked down from the mountain, we put our feet into the Mediterranean Sea for the 1st time.



We went for a walk after dinner and took a night picture of the Castillo.                             


Day 12 - Valencia on the road to Barcelona

Sunrise at breakfast.


We headed north through fragrant groves of almonds, lemons and Valencia oranges to the spectacular city of Valencia.



We passed by Spain's mini version of the Rock of Gibraltar,  


and castles.


Valencia known as the “Garden City” of Spain, is situated on the Orange Blossom Coast where the Turia River meets the Mediterranean Sea.

There are few cities like Valencia that are able to combine remnants of its past, dating back to 138 BC, with innovative and avant-garde buildings from the new millennium. The Arts and Science City, is an outstanding scientific and cultural complex with extraordinary futuristic architecture, designed by local architect Santiago Calatrava.





 

Went by the bullfighting ring,



train station,

and City Hall.


We saw a treasure trove of different styles of architecture before continuing to the gates of the city,







 
and the Gothic Cathedral.



 Then we went to the narrowest building in Spain, at less than 2 meters,


 the "circular" square,




and the City Market.


 Finished the day, journeying along the Mediterranean coast to sensational Barcelona. 



Met up at our hotel with Zach's sister Celeste, who arrived in Barcelona the day before us. We have 3 days with her before departing for Paris.



Crazy that night in Barcelona with La Merce Catalonia going on all night.


 


Day 13 - Barcelona and Montserrat 

In the morning, the three of us walked up to the Art Museum and Montjuic Hill, 





home to the Olympic Complex, a number of sports facilities built for the 1992 Summer Olympics. We walked around the complex taking pictures





including inside the Olympic Stadium, 

and Cauldron.


Then we walked down the street to the Jardi Botanic de Barcelona. It has plants from all over the world.  Since it was La Merce Catalonia, this and all museums were free. We were disappointed because the Bonsais section was closed and that's what we wanted to see the most.






On the way back Celeste went to buy her ticket for Montserrat and we visited the Museu Olympic de L'Esport. It was very interesting.



Hercules lead the Olympic parade.


Costumes for the Barcelona Olympics.

 Mark Spitz.

 Wilt Chamberlain.



Torches from all modern Olympic games.


Mascot.


 
Bike for 10?

 

We still had time, so went to MNAC, Museu Nacional D'Art de Catalonia. It had an amazing collection from most different are periods, especially, Gothic and Renaissance.









 On the way down the hill, the water in the Majic Fountain was flowing.


Fireworks set-up for the show that night.

 



In the afternoon, we went on a trip to Montserrat Mountain and Monastery. It's quite a drive up the mountain with great views.

 We could barely make out the snow-capped peaks of the Pyrenees Mountains in the distance.




The Monastery is nestled on the side of the mountain. It's a popular place to visit, besides the road up there is a tram and a cable car to the top from the train station below.





In addition to the Monastery with its current 65 monks, there is a school for musically gifted boys, and gift shops and restaurants.








The highlight is the of the visit was the Royal Basilica, where we saw the famous 12th-century Romanesque sculpture of "Virgen Moreneta." 




We walked the stations of the cross above the Monastery.  



We ran into Celeste, who was on a different tour, as she had timed her visit same as our. After spending more time walking around, we took the cable car to the station and returned to Barcelona.





That evening was the last day of La Merce Catalonia. We caught a cab to the Gothic Quarter because there wasn't enough time to walk. We wanted to see the Giants Parade, but we're still late in arriving. 




 We still did see some of the Giants. 




and had a nice dinner at a Tapas restaurant.




After dinner, we had to catch another cab to hurry back to our hotel or view the fireworks from Celeste room overlooking the square. The fireworks were shot from the area of the Magic Fountain and Art Museum.


There were well over 100k people watching from the square. We had the best view. The fireworks show was the longest we had ever seen, lasting almost 40 minutes.






We ended up with 30k steps for the day, the most of this trip for one day.

Day 14 - Barcelona

Started the day with the hop-on-hop-off at Columbus Monument.




Then we walked La Rambla.







 From there we went to Barcelona Cathedral.




We almost decided not to go to Sant Pau Art Nouveau Site. So glad we did. It's Modernista architecture, the work of Liuis Domenech i Montaner. The former hospital is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was beautiful. 




 








Park Guell was our next stop, another Gaudi creation.








Sagrada Familia from Park Guell.







Our last stop of the day was Gaudi's Sagrada Familia. He spent 40 years working on this church before he was killed by a tram. Beyond amazing. We've  been in a lot of churches and this was the 1st one I didn't want to leave. Felt like the way to heaven. We took pictures inside and out, daylight and dark.








 What it will look like in 2025 when it is finished.




 Gaudi is buried here.



 The outside at night.







Walked back to hotel. 25k steps today.

Day 15 - Barcelona Last Day

Wow! Another busy day! We took the Red Line to the Green Line. The Green Line goes by the beaches and  harbor area. 


After that ride we returned to the Red Line. Got off in the Gothic Quarter. 






and found the Picasso Museum. It was ok. It has over 4,250 works, mostly from his early days.











Walking through the Gothic Quarter.

 




From there we went to the Gaudi designed Casa Billio'. 



Beside the earth focused architecture, it had the latest in home furnishings like a one-of-a-kind fireplace. 




 The building outside and inside was amazing.








After a short lunch stop, we walked to The Pedrera, (Casa Mila) and did that tour. It was Gaudi's last structure before starting on the Sagrada Familia for 40 years. His designs are nature focused and frequently used recycled materials.



View from top.


The roof by itself was an amazing creation.










The apartment below was occupied by the family in the early 20th century.





 Gaudi streetlight.


We did the 3-mile walk back to our hotel, stopping for dinner at the Restaurant Zian. 



We finished in time to rush to see the amazing  "Magic Fountain".








Day 16 - Flight from Barcelona to Paris

Grand total number steps we did in Spain/Portugal trip was over 268k. 

ANOTHER GREAT TRIP FROM GATE1 !!

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